The Elegance of Suun Japbang and the Dignity of Head Housewife Kim Doeun at the Hampton Court Palace Food Festival
This August, the historic grounds of Hampton Court Palace in London will once again host the world-renowned Hampton Court Palace Food Festival, an annual celebration of global gastronomy and cultural richness. Representing Korea on this prestigious stage is the city of Andong, widely revered as the cradle of Confucian culture and traditional values in the Republic of Korea.
Through this event, Andong seeks to present its culinary heritage not merely as regional fare but as a profound expression of cultural identity, philosophy, and living history. At the centre of this showcase is the 15th Head Housewife of the Gwangsan Kim clan, Mrs. Kim Doeun, who will demonstrate a modern interpretation of a historical dish derived from the ‘Suun Japbang’, a treasured culinary manuscript passed down over centuries.
Suun Japbang: Diplomacy Through the Language of Food
One of the most intellectually compelling highlights of this year’s festival will be the presentation of Suun Japbang (需雲雜方), a classical Korean cookery manuscript written in literary Chinese by the Confucian scholars Kim Yu (1491–1555) and his grandson Kim Ryeong (1577–1641). The term Suun originates from the I Ching, evoking the image of a gentleman partaking in feasts and convivial gatherings under the auspices of heaven—a metaphor deeply woven into the manuscript’s philosophy.
The work comprises 114 distinct recipes, including 57 varieties of traditional liquors, 6 vinegars, 14 vegetable pickles and fermented dishes, 9 soy-based condiments, and a broad array of soups, stews, desserts, tofu dishes, dairy items, and medicinal broths. Notably, the volume includes local culinary techniques unique to the Andong region, such as the Ocheon Brewing Method, reflecting both empirical knowledge and regional specificity.
Far more than a mere cookbook, Suun Japbang offers a rare and intimate window into the gastronomic culture of the Korean yangban (aristocratic) class of the Joseon Dynasty. As the only surviving handwritten copy by its original authors, it holds unparalleled bibliographic value and serves as a foundational text for the study of traditional Korean cuisine.
Kim Doeun: A Custodian of Culinary Lineage
At this year’s festival, Mrs Kim Doeun will unveil a refined rendition of yukjjim, a slow-braised beef dish originally documented in Suun Japbang. Her presentation is not merely a culinary performance, but a deeply symbolic act—one that embodies the role of a jongbu (head housewife), who carries the honour and spiritual duties of her ancestral line.
Since 2013, Mrs Kim, alongside her husband Mr Kim Wondong, Chairman of the Suun Japbang Culinary Research Institute, has dedicated herself to the revival and reinterpretation of ancient recipes within the modern context. Their work bridges centuries, imbuing traditional dishes with contemporary elegance while remaining faithful to their cultural and philosophical origins.
Her participation in this global event marks a pivotal moment in the international recognition of Korean food not only as nourishment, but as an artistic and scholarly pursuit rooted in Confucian ethics and generational wisdom.
Andong: Where Food and Intangible Culture Coalesce
More than a culinary city, Andong is a living repository of Korean spiritual and intellectual heritage. Home to UNESCO-listed sites such as Hahoe Folk Village, Byeongsan Seowon, and Dosan Seowon, it is a city where philosophy, architecture, and ritual converge seamlessly.
Visitors can experience immersive cultural stays in traditional hanok houses, explore vibrant open-air markets, and encounter museums that narrate Korea’s historical evolution. Culinary offerings such as Andong Jjimdak (braised chicken), gangodeungeo (salted mackerel), heotjesabap (ritual-inspired rice meal), and Andong Hanwoo (premium beef) align perfectly with global slow-food trends and the rising interest in health-conscious, heritage-rich diets.
Culinary Diplomacy on a Global Stage
The Hampton Court Palace Food Festival is more than a celebration of flavours; it is a convergence point of royal tradition and contemporary global culture. By bringing Suun Japbang to this international forum, Andong conveys a message far deeper than taste: Korean cuisine is culture, and food is diplomacy.
Through this endeavour, the wisdom of Suun Japbang, the philosophy of Head Housewife Kim Doeun, and the cultural gravitas of Andong will quietly and gracefully infuse the summer air of London with the subtle beauty of Korea’s culinary legacy.
