The fashion industry is often a barometer of economic and social fortunes – the expression ‘Cutting your coat to suit your cloth’ (living within your means!) is a reflection of this and in recent history, hem lines have risen and clothes made more fitting during economic hardships. The colours and hues also tend to become muted and austere to suit ‘austerity’. However, when I was invited to the Eurasian Fashion Awards, as Chairman of the Eurasian Creative Guild I was more than surprised. Today’s Central Asian fashion Industry is undergoing a renaissance and there was no sign of financial woes in the flowing silks, velvets and brocades used in many of the collections on show in Kazakhstan’s third city – Shymkent. Gold and silver silver threads, jewelled accessories bedazzled and sparkled in the spotlights of the Rixos Hotel grand ballroom, and the striking oriental looks of the models paired seamlessly with the clothes on show.
This is the first time the awards have been held in Shymkent organised by Turan Model Agency under the direction of Eurasian Creative Guild member, Saule Suleimen. An energetic children’s section started the proceedings, with models from Taraz and other cities in Kazakhstan.
The participating designers were from all across Kazakhstan and further afield such as Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan and as the models walked the catwalk it was as though we were walking the Silk road itself. From Ancient Persia the profiles were Arabic, traditional head coverings accented with colourful embroidered geometry, modern portrait prints gave nod to pop art but are panelled into loose fitting kimonos, The Fashion Theatre Silhouettes collection was a jungle of animal prints and faux leather, topped with stylish cowboy hats.
Hats were a big thing in many collections allowing the models to play to the cameras while stroking the broad rims or giving extra height to already towering traditional Kazakh head wear with ostrich feathers and more crystal embellishments.
Another key feature of the festival was the use of traditional motifs. There were striking black and white printed patterns of Petroglyphs, hand painted trees of life, the paisley made its mark in a subtle way but it was the hand embroidered collections from Tajikistan that created an audible gasp among the audience.
Khurshed Sattorov’s kaleidoscopic collection of flowing gowns use hand embroidered and sewn fabrics harking back to the traditional patterns of Tajikistan and Dushanbe in particular. As his models glided along the catwalk, with traditional headwear and jewellery, they raised their arms letting the oversized kimono sleeves open like great glowing butterflies. It was a grey December day in Shymkent but in the opulence of the room, the sun came out and the colours dazzled. We were all transformed back to the Arabian Nights and Persian princesses.
Another collection, also from Uzbekstan, by Firuza Yakubova, also used hand made embroidered pieces. The collection is a family affair with sisters and mother all helping to maintain the historic traditions. For this collection Firuza uses the patterns as highlights, sleeves, collars and hems accentuate the modern silhouettes created by the clothes. This is the Silk Road of the future – a fusion of cultural tradition bridging time and place. Spending time with this group of creative talents, without a common spoken language, made me realise how creativity can transcend differences, create laughter and a positive inspiring future – as well as producing quality fashion too!
